Loewe Spring 2027: McCollough and Hernandez Take Americana on a Road Trip Through Spain

Somewhere between a polo shirt and a Velázquez there is a very specific kind of summer. You know it if you have ever crossed Spain in a rental car with the wrong playlist and the right sunglasses. On October 2, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez turned that summer into the Loewe Spring 2027 collection, shown at the Château de Vincennes on the eastern edge of Paris.

The set looked like a Shakespeare stage that had wandered into a Kubrick film. Casper Mueller Kneer Architects built a ghostly theater in the round with the audience stacked on two levels while the models circled below. W Magazine saw echoes of Shakespeare’s Globe and La Scala in it. If you watched the livestream on your phone, you got the vertigo for free.

From cabinet of curiosities to clothes you can live in

To see why this show matters, you need the backstory. For more than a decade Loewe belonged to Jonathan Anderson, who turned a respectable leather house founded in Madrid in 1846 into fashion’s favorite art project. Anderson gave us the Puzzle bag, trompe l’oeil tricks and clothes that sometimes felt like sculptures you were allowed to borrow. When he left for Dior in 2025, Loewe hired McCollough and Hernandez, the New York duo behind Proenza Schouler.

Spring 2027 is their third runway collection for the house. This time the brief changed. Their first seasons leaned on what W Magazine called madcap layering and inflatable outerwear. This one is calmer. According to AnOther Magazine, the designers said they “didn’t want to create clothes as objects anymore.” What they wanted instead sounds almost old-fashioned for a Paris show: autobiography.

Americana with a Spanish accent

That autobiography speaks with an American accent. Picture polo shirts cut so they seem to be worn backwards, checked blazers, layered chinos and boat shoes with loud laces. W Magazine spotted The Official Preppy Handbook among the references, the 1980 guide to New England dressing that treated the little alligator logo like scripture. Lampoon names Claire McCardell as the patron saint of the season. She was the American designer who made relaxed, practical sportswear respectable decades before athleisure had a hashtag.

Then Spain walks in and ruffles the preppy calm. Skirts look like crumpled paper bags held together with bungee cords. Moulded leather dresses have been loosened until they seem ready to slip off the body. Collars made of resin, the stuff you know from sunglasses frames, sit on soft knits in gold or fire red. AnOther links the mood to paintings by Velázquez and Zurbarán at the Prado as well as to the photographers Tina Barney and Bruce Weber plus the artist Christo. If that sounds like a lot of names for one shirt, welcome to fashion criticism, where every hem comes with a bibliography.

Lampoon reports that the starting point was a summer road trip through Spain with stops in Madrid, San Sebastián, Bilbao and Segovia. One detail is pure archive love: a golden tan suede blazer that, according to AnOther, refers to the first garment Loewe ever produced in the 1960s. For a house that built its name on leather, that is a quiet but pointed gesture.

The bags, because obviously the bags

Some of you skipped straight to this paragraph. No judgment: Loewe is a leather house and the bags pay for the amphitheaters. PurseBlog lists a new East-West Puzzle in a featherweight construction, available in leather and embossed croc, plus a slouchier Amazona 180 in supple leather. The new names are the Pasito, which crosses a soft drawstring dustbag with a rigid box bag, as well as a messenger whose cord closure reworks the classic Loewe knot. W Magazine calls the East-West Puzzle the Puzzle Charm, so the official naming may still shift before the pieces reach the shops.

What it means for luxury and for your closet

Now for interpretation, clearly labeled as such. The Anderson era trained shoppers to buy Loewe as a collectible, something you displayed as much as wore. McCollough and Hernandez seem to be betting that the next customer wants the opposite: clothes that look intelligent on a Tuesday. W Magazine quoted them talking about “proximity to the clothes, proximity to living.” That is a very different promise from a cabinet of curiosities.

Not every critic is fully sold. Writing for nss magazine, Lorenzo Salamone praised “the beauty of the inexact” yet suggested the house could still define its customer more sharply. For a third season, that sounds like a fair note rather than a verdict. Meanwhile, the duo’s Proenza Schouler past keeps showing through. W Magazine traced the floral embroidery back to Hawaiian prints from their Proenza Schouler Spring 2012 collection, which suggests the autobiography line was meant literally.

The good news for your own wardrobe is that the lesson is cheap. Wear a polo with a full skirt instead of jeans. Layer chinos under something sheer. Lace your boat shoes in a color your mother would question. The road trip through Spain is optional, although we would not talk you out of it.

The bigger shift is that luxury is trying to make desire feel personal again after years of spectacle and viral stunts. Loewe chose to do it with bungee cords and polo shirts. Whether customers follow will be decided at the shop counter next year, not in a theater in the round.